Hey team, so as it's Halloween today, it got me thinking of when I first arrived in Poland. When I first arrived in Kraków! I was unfamiliar with the excitement surrounding Halloween. Back home, it wasn't a big deal, but here, it was an entirely different thing!
As I was strolling through the streets of the Old Town, obviously I was impressed by the architecture as we all are who are lucky enough to have come here, but what was even more exciting was that most of the buildings were adorned with flickering jack-o'-lanterns and other decorations that brought the city to life in a scary, undead-type way haha. The city was booming with energy, and I was gearing up for the night of my life.
Half drunk already, I heard this homeless man rambling about ghosts… and he was speaking English! I thought, man, if he actually has some tales to tell, this would make an unreal story. Random ghost stories on Halloween in Kraków! Haha, as it often does, curiosity got the better of me, and I went over and asked the man what he was talking about. He looked at the bottle of vodka in my pocket and said in a very Slavic English accent, "I'll tell ya for a shot!" So, obviously, I opened the bottle!
He took a long swig and looked up at me; I'll never forget the way he looked—a sly grin forming. "Okay, dobrze, you want to know what I was speaking about?"
I nodded, and he motioned for me to sit. Between swigs of vodka, he began to share some pretty outrageous stories, tales, and myths, and on any other day, I wouldn’t have believed them haha, but it’s Halloween; anything can happen on Halloween.
He took a swig of his vodka before beginning. "Have you heard of the Demon of Łysa Góra?" he asked, his voice lowering.
"Bald Mountain? No, I haven't."
"Long ago," he began, "villagers gathered atop Łysa Góra to perform ancient rituals—stare rytuały. They wanted to harness dark powers, to control forces beyond our world."
"What happened?" I asked, leaning in.
"They summoned something they couldn't contain," he said gravely. "Strange lights—dziwne światła—were seen in the sky. Those who went up the mountain never returned. Even today, hikers speak of unnatural sounds—nienaturalne dźwięki—whispers that aren't carried by the wind."
He glanced around before continuing. "Some say the demon still guards the mountain, a sentinel born from mistakes of the past. On nights like this, when the moon is full—pełnia księżyca—you can feel its presence."
A chill ran down my spine. It almost seemed as if the mountain itself was watching us. (Read more about the history and legends of Łysa Góra here. )
He leaned in closer. "But the demon is not the only thing to fear. You must be careful of the Strzyga."
"What's a Strzyga?" I asked.
He eyed me seriously. "A creature with two hearts and two souls—dwa serca i dwie dusze. By day, they appear human, blending seamlessly into society. But by night, they transform into monstrous beings, feeding on the life force of the living."
"How can you tell if someone is a Strzyga?" I questioned, both skeptical and intrigued.
He smirked. "You can't. Some say they avoid eye contact—unikać kontaktu wzrokowego—or their shadows move independently—cień żyje własnym życiem. Others believe they possess knowledge beyond their years. But tonight, with everyone in costumes, it's impossible to know who, or what, you might encounter."
He paused, letting the weight of his words sink in. "So be cautious, my friend. Not everything is as it seems." (Learn more about the mysterious Strzyga here.)
Looking at the time, I realized I was late for the pub crawl, and I decided he had earned the bottle, so I left it with him and headed straight for Let's Rock Party Hostel!
I pieced together a last-minute costume—a pirate hat and an eye patch—and headed downstairs to where the pub crawl was starting. The place was alive with energy, decorations everywhere. They even had a professional face painter painting faces haha, very cool. People dressed as vampires, witches, and creatures I couldn't even name filled the room.
We set off into the night, moving from one club to another. Each venue embraced the Halloween spirit fully, with themed drinks, haunting music, and elaborate decorations. The city's dedication to the celebration was evident at every turn.
Amidst the fun in Prozac 2.0 (I think it was), a tall figure dressed as a vampire bumped into me, nearly causing me to spill my drink.
"Sorry about that!" he exclaimed with a grin, flashing fake fangs before disappearing into the crowd.
It wasn't until I was at the bar buying another drink that I noticed my wallet was missing. Damn it! Panic set in.
I informed one of the pub crawl guides, who helped me retrace my steps, but the wallet was nowhere to be found. On the way to the next club, we saw the police, so we went to report the theft.
Communication was a challenge. The officer spoke little English, and with the help of a translator app, I explained what happened.
"He was dressed as a vampire," I said.
The officer gave a weary smile, gesturing to the window where countless vampires roamed the streets. "Tonight, everyone is vampire," he said. "Very difficult."
Realising the improbability of finding the culprit, I thanked him and returned to the group.
Back at Let's Rock, I contemplated calling it a night. But my new friends wouldn't hear of it.
"Don't worry about it," one said. "We've got you covered."
They pooled their resources to ensure I could continue enjoying the evening. Their generosity turned a very sad situation into one of my favorite nights I can remember.
"You're part of the family now," another added with a reassuring pat on the back. Obviously, I paid them all back the next day, but it was so nice of them to just help a stranger out like this.
As the night wore on, I had to retell the tales the old man had told me.
"Do you think there's any truth to the story of the Lady in White?" I asked.
One of them nodded thoughtfully. "My grandmother used to tell me about her. Some say she's been seen near the castle on misty nights."
Another chimed in, "And the Strzyga—my uncle swears he encountered one during his military service. He said the man's eyes reflected no light, even in the dark."
I'm sure they were just trying to scare me even more, but the blend of local legends and the festive atmosphere made the experience all the more memorable.
By the time the first light of dawn appeared, I realized that despite the setback, this night had become something special. Losing my wallet to a vampire was an unexpected twist, but it added to all of the stories I'd have to share with everyone back home. As I settled into bed, I couldn't help but smile. Kraków had welcomed me with open arms, shared its secrets, and given me a Halloween unlike any other.
If you find yourself in Kraków during Halloween and want to experience the nightlife and Halloween the way I did, buy a ticket here! https://www.krakowanimalscrawl.com/
Just keep an eye on your wallet—those vampires are sneaky!